![]() ![]() ![]() UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging). We love that it can protect from both UVA and UVB rays (not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. If you wanna become a real HA-and-the-skin expert, you can read much more about the topic at hyaluronic acid (including penetration-questions, differences between high and low molecular weight versions and a bunch of references to scientific literature).We assess that "innisfree - Daily UV Defense Sunscreen SPF 36" can provide reliable sun protection based on the ingredient list. Based on the Evonik-research and the natural role of LMW-HA in the body working as a pro-inflammatory signal molecule, this ultra-low molecular weight version is a controversial ingredient. below 50k, around 10k Da version: there is a Japanese version trade named Hyalo-Oligo that has only a 10k molecular weight and is claimed to penetrate the skin very well, have a unique touch and give deep and long-lasting moisturization.50k Da version: this is the size that is claimed to be able to absorb into the skin and plump up wrinkles, so it is used mainly as an "anti-aging ingredient".It is also claimed to boost the wound healing process and is especially helpful for sensitive skin types (acne, rosacea, inflammation-related skin diseases). 100-300 kDa version: apart from moisturizing, this size might also help the skin to repair itself by increasing its self-defense.It's worth a try, especially if you are after Vitamin C's skin-brightening effects. ![]() Overall, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a very promising but not a fully proven Vitamin C derivative. On top of manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin. The strong point of EAC though is skin brightening. EAC seems to have both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, and it's claimed to be able to boost the skin's collagen production. Regarding conversion, we can cite only a manufacturers claim saying that EAC is metabolized in the skin into pure ascorbic acid (and the ascorbic acid content of EAC is very high - 86,4% - compared to the usual 50-60% Vitamin C content of other derivatives).Īs for the three magic abilities of Vitamin C, we again mostly have only the manufacturer's claims, but at least those are very promising. ![]() We have good news regarding the absorption: on top of manufacturer claims, there is some data (animal study) demonstrating in can get into the skin, and it seems to be better at it than Ascorbyl Glucoside, another vitamin C derivative. However, for a Vitamin C derivative to work it's not enough just to be stable, they also have to be absorbed into the skin and be converted there to pure Vitamin C. Overall, it makes us sad to write bad things about such a lovely plant, but when it comes to skincare, you will be better off without lavender. This was the year when using dried lavender flowers in pillows, wardrobes, and elsewhere became fashionable in Japan, so it seems that increased exposure to lavender results in increased risk of sensitivity. There is also an often cited Japanese study that made patch tests with lavender oil for 9 years and found a huge increase in lavender oil sensitivity in 1997 (from 1.1% in 1990 to 8.7% in 1997 and 13.9% in 1998). To make things even worse, lavender oil seems to be cytotoxic from concentrations as low as 0.25% (concentration up to 0.125% were ok). The two main components are linalyl acetate (about 50%) and linalool (about 35%) and both autoxidise on exposure to the air forming strong contact allergens. Now, let us look at the cons: similar to a bunch of other essential oils, the main components of lavender oil are potentially irritating fragrant components. (The main components of the flower essential oil are linalyl acetate and linalool while it is 1,8-Cineole in the essential oil of the leaves.) We have found a study confirming this but it was the essential oil of the leaves and not the much more commonly used flowers and the two differ in their main chemical compounds very much. Lavender oil is also often claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties. It also has some local pain relieving and muscle relaxing magical powers. *Potassium Hyaluronate (*Include Hyaluronic Complex 10Ppm)Īnother pro is that lavender oil has some nice antimicrobial and antibacterial properties. Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl TetramethylbutylphenolĪcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer *Potassium Hyaluronate (*Include Hyaluronic Complex 10Ppm) ĭiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate ,Īcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer , Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol , Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate , ![]()
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